Dhanada K Mishra, Hong Kong, 8 July 2024
As I boarded the plane to Taipei in May, I was filled with excitement to explore the island nation of Taiwan for the first time. My wife, Babita, and I were visiting the capital city of Taipei for a long weekend to attend the annual Pan Asia meet of University of Michigan alumni, an event that had been on hold due to the COVID-19 pandemic. While the alumni event was a major draw for its professional networking opportunities and a chance to reconnect with old friends from my time studying at the beautiful Ann Arbor campus, the opportunity to experience the fascinating country and culture of Taiwan was equally enticing.
The flight from Hong Kong to Taipei was a short one – just like flying from Bhubaneswar to Delhi – all along the south coast of mainland China due East – North East. The first sites that one sees as the flight approaches the coast of Taiwan are long lines of windmills in the shallow water off the land. By the end of 2023, 283 wind turbines were installed, reaching a cumulative installed capacity of 2.25 GW – around 10% of its total electricity consumption. They have a target of doubling it by 2025. Taipei has two airports. The Taoyuan International Airport is the newer and bigger of the two where we landed. It is almost 43 km from the city centre and well connected by road and train. We could feel the countryside with its impressive greenery and hilly terrain from our comfortable train journey. It felt much like Hong Kong’s little-known countryside with well-maintained country parks and a little bit like Odisha’s countryside scenery in monsoon.
Taiwan, officially known as the Republic of China, is an island country located off the southeastern coast of mainland China. It has a rich history dating back thousands of years, with influences from Chinese, Japanese, and other Asian cultures. The island was originally inhabited by Austronesian indigenous peoples before large-scale migration from mainland China began in the 17th century. Taiwan later came under Dutch, Spanish, and Qing dynasty Chinese rule before becoming a Japanese colony in the late 19th century. After World War II, the Republic of China’s government of the legendary Chiang Kai-shek fled to Taiwan in 1949 after losing the Chinese Civil War to Chairman Mao’s People’s Army of the Communist Party, and the island has remained in a state of political tension with mainland China ever since. Mainland China officially known as the People’s Republic of China (PRC) considers Taiwan as a rebel province and has integration by any means as its official policy.
Despite this complex history and ongoing geopolitical issues, Taiwan has blossomed into a thriving, prosperous, and technologically advanced country. Upon arriving in the bustling capital of Taipei, I was struck by the modernity and vibrancy of the city. The towering Taipei 101 skyscraper, at one point the world’s tallest building, stands as an iconic symbol of Taiwan’s economic prowess and technological leadership. Throughout the city, the streets were bustling with activity, from the lively night markets selling an array of delicious street food to the high-end shopping districts.
One of the highlights of our short time in Taipei was visiting the grand Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall, a neoclassical monument dedicated to the former president of the Republic of China. The sprawling complex, with its impressive white marble structure and expansive gardens, offered a glimpse into Taiwan’s political history. We also explored several of Taipei’s beautiful temples, including the iconic Longshan Temple, which blended Buddhist, Taoist, and Confucian elements in its intricate architecture.
The majestic Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall
What struck me most, however, was the warmth and friendliness of the Taiwanese people. Whether we were asking for directions or simply exploring the city, the locals went out of their way to offer assistance and recommendations. It felt like there was a greater prevalence of English proficiency compared to other parts of Asia that I have visited, likely due to Taiwan’s strong educational ties with the United States. This ease of communication, combined with the country’s relaxed and unhurried pace of life, created a welcoming atmosphere reminiscent of my time in Hong Kong, but with a distinct Taiwanese flair.
At the Pan Asia Alumni meet, I missed my friend Prof. Yin-wen Chan the most. He was my colleague while we pursued our PhD together at Michigan in the first half of the 1990s. I was looking forward to meeting Prof. Chan (who is the top structural engineering expert in Taiwan) during this visit, but unfortunately, he happened to be away in the USA attending his daughter’s graduation ceremony in New York. During the alumni event, one of the panel discussions touched on the geopolitical tensions between Taiwan and mainland China. While the academic expert on the subject poked fun at Taiwan’s perceived military weakness, it was clear that the threat of invasion from the mainland looms large. However, the Taiwanese people I interacted with did not seem overly concerned or militaristic in their approach. This contrasted with the American frustration, as the panel member noted, at Taiwan’s lack of urgency in bolstering its defences. Taiwan has an active conscription system for compulsory military service of one year following four months of training required of all eligible male adults. The US which is the biggest military partner of Taiwan providing it with protection would like to make it a much longer service for example. However, there is very little popular support for the same given the general prosperity – an interesting conundrum!
The author with a colleague at the Alumni Meet
Overall, my first visit to Taipei and Taiwan left me captivated by the country’s rich history, vibrant culture, and technological prowess. As India continues to rise on the global stage, there is much we can learn from Taiwan’s remarkable economic transformation and innovative spirit. The recent global shortage of semiconductor and computer chips and the American effort to isolate mainland China from developing its capacity in the field is an interesting case in point. Taiwan with companies like TSMC leads the world in the field. Of late India has started making some belated efforts toward developing our indigenous capacity in this important domain. India’s friendly relationship with Taiwan may play a crucial role in future developments in this direction.
The warm hospitality of the Taiwanese people and the country’s ability to maintain a peaceful, prosperous, and democratic society in the face of geopolitical challenges are particularly inspiring. I certainly hope to return to Taiwan soon to explore more of this fascinating island nation.